The DOC land in the Hunua Ranges is one of the most convenient places for Auckland, Tauranga and Hamilton residents to get out and do some hunting. While it’s not exactly teeming with life, it’s a good wander through the bush and you might spot an animal worth bagging.
If you were planning on going for a walk through the DOC land or parklands, you might want to hold off on that for a half year or so… The planned 1080 drops have gone ahead and signs are up at the entrance to the track, warning of the dire consequences of touching or eating anything that’s got in touch with this stuff.
Local landowners gave us a ‘friendly’ warning not to go further into the bush. And fair enough, they’ve got a lot to worry about. They’ve got their dogs, water run off onto their land, and all sorts.
Anyway, off for a hunt or a walk? You’re going to have to look a bit further afield. The Kaimais are looking good about now…
Warnings to protect your pets and yourself abound…
If you’ve gone through the effort of getting your firearms licence, you’ll have come across seven neat rules that should dictate the way you handle guns for the rest of your life. These are the foundation of the arms code and are as follows:
Rule 1: Treat every firearm as loaded Rule 2: Always point firearms in a safe direction Rule 3: Load a firearm only when ready to fire Rule 4: Identify your target beyond all doubt Rule 5: Check your firing zone Rule 6: Store firearms and ammunition safely Rule 7: Avoid alcohol and drugs when handling firearms
You’ll notice, not one of these is “apply the mechanical safety on your firearm”. Why is this? Mechanical objects fail due to wear and tear, extreme conditions and pure bad luck. If you’ve read the instruction manual that comes with your new rifle or shotgun (highly recommended activity), you’ll notice that while new and improved safeties are always created for weapons and mentioned in these manuals, they usually discourage you from relying solely on these little switches.
How does a safety work?
There are two ways that most safeties work. The first is that they block the trigger from being pulled back, or even disconnect the trigger mechanism. The other is that they block the striker or hammer from moving forward and contacting the firing pin. There are many, many other types of safeties, and they can be in different places on your firearm, but they all have one thing in common – they are small bits of material upon which a large responsibility hangs.
That is why you never rely solely on a safety. Now – this my preference – I prefer not to use the safety at all. Some ranges will require your safety to be applied, and that’s fine. But, I personally don’t want to build up a reliance on a little switch.
What do I do instead?
When on the range and not using the rifle, I have it pointed in a safe direction with the action open, magazine out (or empty) and a breech flag in the chamber. This indicates to everyone that firearm is unloaded and safe.
When carrying a firearm to or on the range, same applies. Magazine out or empty (if fixed), and safety flag in or thumb in the chamber – muzzle pointed in a safe direction.
When firing on the range – well, you’re firing. What good is a safety when you want it to go bang?
When carrying a rifle in the field… This is where it gets a bit tricky. I leave my ammunition in my pocket, as well as my bolt if it’s a bolt action, until I’m near where I want to be shooting. When I am in the area in which I want to shoot, I fit the bolt (or close the action on a semi), and load the ammunition.
At this point, I do not chamber a round. I close the bolt on an empty chamber by pushing the top round down with my thumb or inserting the magazine on a closed bolt. When you’re ready to line up your shot, rack the bolt and get ready to squeeze the trigger.
If your quarry eludes you – drop the magazine out and remove the chambered round. Double check to see there’s nothing in there and close the bolt on an empty chamber before inserting your magazine again. Or, push the top round down on your bolt action.
This is just my personal procedure – you may have different feelings on the matter, or experience to the contrary. Leave a comment below with your tips on firearm safety.
Sporter barrels on .22s are usually long and thin. This means they’re lighter when carried in the field, but they can also be whippy and harder to control than bull-barrelled rifles. Another way to achieve that relative stiffness in the barrel is to reduce the length of it.
I’ve had two Norinco JW-15s, and while the 22.5-inch barrel is okay, the 16-inch barrel is a real shooter. If you head on over to nzrimfire.com you’ll find plenty of people who have taken full length Norincos and cut them down to as little as 13 inches with great success. I guy I used to shoot with cut his down to 14 inches and found no drop off in accuracy.
Thankfully in New Zealand there are no minimum barrel length laws, just minimum overall firearm length rules – which means you can take full advantage of this, and make your rifle more manoeuvrable, easier to get in and out of your truck and pretty accurate to boot. In the video below I’m shooting an old Voere that I bought for parts – the barrel has been cut down to 8 inches and lets out a little burst of flame with standard velocity CCI.
So, what is the trade off with cutting down your .22? Well, you can burn off all the powder in your average .22LR case in about 12 – 13 inches of barrel. However, you still won’t have achieved maximum muzzle velocity. You’ll also get more variation in muzzle velocity, as the longer barrels allow for a more consistent burn, resulting in a more consistent muzzle velocity. While you can still gain a lot more speed out of a longer barrel, 16 inches is often said to be the “sweet spot” for .22s.
The humble .22LR doesn’t need too much barrel to burn it’s full powder capacity.
After that point, muzzle velocity still increases, but in much smaller increments per inch, and your follow through becomes much more important. I suppose if you wanted to teach yourself excellent shooting habits, a target rifle with a 28 or 30-inch barrel would be ideal. However, if you just want a nice shooter, go for a 16-inch tube, or do it yourself if you have the confidence/competence. Some manufacturers do release 13 and 14 inch options for their rifles (Anschutz has a 14-inch sporter), however, if you’re doing the job yourself, give it the extra couple inches to be on the safe side. I guess I should put my money where my mouth is and trim down that 22.5-inch Norinco… Oh well, add it to the list.
While you might go to the range or shoot a .22 on someone’s private land – under immediate supervision – to get your first taste of shooting, if you’re serious about owning or shooting firearms, the next step is getting your A Category licence. Here’s a quick guide on the process, what to expect and what an A Cat licence entitles you to do.
What firearms can I own with an A Cat licence?
There are no restrictions on the amount of A Cat firearms you can own. They’re not registered against your name, and you can go buy one from the store straight away, assuming you have your licence and all the associated safety measures in place.
Firearms that are considered A Cat compliant are basically rifles or shotguns that are manually loaded. This means pump actions, lever actions, bolt actions, etc. You can have any features you want on these guns, as long as the overall length is more than 762 mm (30 inches). Anything shorter than that is considered a pistol, and will require a B-endorsement on your licence – which is a whole other story.
This means you can shorten your barrel, or have it in a bullpup configuration, whatever. There is no real minimum barrel length, as long as the overall length is over 762 mm. Which makes sense, as the issue with handguns is conceal-ability.
You can also own a semi-automatic sporting rifle or shotgun, but there are restrictions on these to make sure they don’t fall in to the MSSA (Military Style Semi-Automatic) category, which is governed by an E-endorsement on your licence.
In order to keep your semi-automatic firearm in A-Cat compliant condition, you’ll need to make sure:
The magazine holds 7 rounds or less of centrefire or 15 rounds or less of rimfire ammo
The mag also can’t “appear” to hold more than the above
The butt isn’t collapsible, telescoping or folding
There is no bayonet lug present
There is no flash suppressor
It doesn’t have a free-standing “military style” pistol grip
The pistol grip is the latest addition to the MSSA restrictions, and has been met with a cold-shoulder from the shooting community. Essentially it made a whole lot of unregulated A-Cat firearms illegal and meant people had to modify their rifles or dispose of them. New rifles or shotguns are now usually provided with thumbhole or Dragunov-style stocks.
The SKS my friend Nick is shooting here would be illegal with a free-floating pistol grip instead of the Dragunov-style stock
What do I need to do get my firearms licence?
Well, there’s the obvious stuff first. For those with criminal records or histories of domestic or other violence, a licence to hold a potentially lethal weapon isn’t exactly on the cards. The police firearms officer will do a background check on you, and they’ll also ask to interview two referees. If you’re married or otherwise attached, one of those referees will have to be your spouse, while the other must be a non-related person you’ve known for a couple years or more. Those referees are basically to attest to the fact that you’re a fit and proper person to own a firearms.
However, before you’ve even done this step, you’ll have to sit a test that shows you have a solid understanding of how to safely store and use hunting or sporting weapons. Start your study by asking your local police station for a copy of the Arms Code or get it online. Once you have a thorough understanding of what is involved in the responsible and safe ownership and operation of firearms, you can apply to sit the test.
The test will be held at your local police station, and is facilitated by volunteers who have a wealth of practical firearms experience. They’ll take you through the main points of gun safety, including how to carry a gun in the field and ensuring the firearm is made safe before and after use. There’s a short video and practical demonstrations of how to hold, load and unload a rifle or shotgun.
After all this there is a multi-choice test, for which you have to get almost all of the answers right in order to pass. If you don’t get it right the first time, you’ll have to study up some more and attend another information evening before you can sit the test again.
Once you have your proof of having passed the test, you can go to the local post shop and pay for your licence. The cost is $126.50. You’ll need to get proof of payment along with passport photos to the police. At this point you’ll arrange for your safety check to be done at home. Talk to the police or your local arms officer about what the safety standards are.
For an A Category licence, a good standard is to have a lockable safe with separate ammo compartment (bolts and ammo must be stored separately so as to make the firearm inoperable). These can be picked up for a few hundred bucks on Trademe or other websites, and are usually supplied with expanding bolts and pre-drilled holes so you can secure the safe to either a concrete floor, or the walls and floor if you’re securing to wood (say, inside a closet). The firearms officer will check to see if the safe is actually securely fastened – it’s no good if a potential thief could just lift it up and take the entire safe away, guns and all.
Once you’ve sat your test, paid for your licence and supplied photos, had your referees interviewed and safety checked, it’s just a matter of time before your licence arrives in the post. It could take a few weeks or more, depending on how busy they are – so don’t freak out! Also remember that your licence is valid for ten years and will have to be renewed before it expires if you’re to keep your firearms. Which reminds me…
There are gun lovers all over New Zealand, and chances are you’re going to want to trade with them at some point. Whether it’s purchasing from a small engineering shop or gun importer on a different island, or buying a second-hand rifle off trademe, there’s always going to be an occasion when you need to buy something that your average courier doesn’t like shipping.
Rifles not powder
No, I’m not talking about explosives like powder or primers. Hazardous goods is a whole other story, and realistically you are better off going to your local retailer 9 times out of 10.
No, I’m talking about rifles and their parts. Accessories aren’t a problem, and usually parts like triggers or suppressors aren’t an issue. It’s the barrelled action that causes consternation.
It used to be that you could get your local Hunting & Fishing to transfer a rifle to the buyer’s local branch for a fee, but they no longer do this.
Who to choose
The only courier I have found that will consistently deliver rifles and parts is Fastway Couriers. The last time I had a rifle shipped with them it cost $27. If you have the bolt shipped separately, it will cost more. And of course there will be differences depending on the location of buyer and seller. I guess you could figure on spending between $25 and $50.
I have tried other couriers as well, but none have been as reliable and easy to deal with. Most of them just won’t ship your gun for you. I’m not paid by anyone to promote Fastway, just hoping to share the benefit of my experience.
Aside from that, I would always recommend getting a gun shipped signature only. I would also get it sent to your work in a nondescript box, so that you can be 100% sure it won’t be left lying around in your driveway.
Over the Christmas break I was fortunate enough to be able to go to the USA with my wife to visit family and friends. Of course the States is a Mecca for gun owners, and I did a fair bit of shooting while I was there. I also managed to bring back some ammunition and other shooting equipment from my trip. I thought I’d provide the details of bringing ammo back from the USA to NZ, as information was sparse when I was looking into the process.
Inform your carrier
I’m putting this here because it’s the first thing you should do. Give your travel agent or the airline plenty of notice (aim for 2 weeks minimum) that you will be carrying ammunition and/or firearms in your checked luggage on the way back. You don’t want them to reject your luggage when you’re coming back home, leading to a massive waste of money.
The only real restriction in how much ammo you can bring back is what the airline says. For me, flying Air NZ, it was 5 kg per person. Between my wife and I, we brought back just shy of 10 kg of live rounds. They stipulate “sporting rounds”. I guess that means don’t bring mortar shells in or something, as every military calibre I’m aware of has sporting applications.
They also stipulated it should be in its original packaging. No problem there.
Funnily enough, after declaring to the carrier that I would be bringing ammo (and possibly a firearm) back into NZ, I underwent a “random” search when leaving Auckland for San Francisco. Just a quick swap to see if I was covered in explosives or anything – no big deal. I’m assured it was random. I think not – but who cares?
Purchasing your ammo
When you’re buying ammunition online, a lot of companies won’t sell to you if you have a USEever A delivery address and a NZ billing address. You may need to get family over there to purchase for you ahead of time (so it’s delivered by the time you get there), or you’ll have to go into a gun store.
As an aside, not being a US resident makes it very hard to obtain a firearm. There are also wait periods in a lot of states from the time of purchase to the time you can take possession of the weapon. If you’re wanting to get a rifle over there, a lot of planning is needed. You also need to make sure it’s on the approved list provided by the NZ Police, and there is an import permit involved as well. However, back to the ammo…
Leaving the country with ammunition
My experience was flying out of California (San Francisco) in the States, depending where you go, there could be a vast difference. I had no problem leaving the country with ammo. Nothing to report, my carrier already knew and no hold ups here.
Arriving in New Zealand
There is no import permit required for sporting ammunition. Some people will tell you differently, but there really isn’t. I spoke to arms officers, the police, airport police, Air NZ and airport staff before even leaving for the USA. Not everyone says the same thing, but according to the arms officer, police and my experience, no import permit is needed for live rounds. Heck, customs didn’t even check my firearms licence.
When going through customs I technically had nothing to declare. I didn’t think the ammo needed declaring, and I had nothing else that would get in the way of a completely legal reentry. However, I declared the ammunition anyway.
I did this just to avoid any hassle. i didn’t want to be pulled up or anything, so I volunteered the information. The customs officer searching our bags said they had no problem with ammunition, and they don’t even care how much (again, just the airline limit), but it’s firearms parts they’re concerned with.
I also brought in a scope (my wife’s Christmas present from me) and some reloading gear (my Christmas present from my wife’s grandmother) with no issues at all. Customs did mention the reloading gear, but I guess their concern was whether or not it was used or had any foreign matter in it.
They had more of an issue with the hair product in my wife’s bag than any of the firearms paraphernalia that we brought in.
I hope this clears it all up – it’s actually very easy! Any questions? Post a comment below.
